Chamonix

Love it or loathe it, everyone tends to have an opinion about Chamonix. Many argue that it's the capital of Alpine sport, with its position next to Mont Blanc, awe-inspiring scenery, a beautiful town, the Vallée Blanche, off-piste terrain to test the very best and the Grands Montets in Argentière. They'll tell you the nightlife rocks, there are plenty of good restaurants, things to do all year-round and it's just over an hour from Geneva airport. In short, why go anywhere else??? 

Sadly, there are drawbacks. Chamonix's skiing does favour more advanced skiers. Beginners might feel left out. It is also disjointed, made up of a series of smaller bus-linked resorts; getting about can be a right pain if you're without a car. It is very popular, so traffic can be terrible, while lift queues still vex the most relaxed (notably the top half of the Grands Montets cable car). It is also expensive, with shopping nearly toppling skiing as the favourite pastime, plus a lot of the skiing requires a guide (most of whom are excellent). 

Even so, Chamonix is one of the great resorts, one that attracts the best skiers - people who really want to challenge themselves. It retains a special aura - one that only a few resorts in the world manage to create. If you want the thrill of pushing yourself to the limits, go to Chamonix - hang out with the pros and the bums, see some of the best skiing and boarding around and, best of all, boast to your friends about skiing on 'real mountains'. 

Chamonix forms part of a region known as Chamonix/Mont Blanc, comprising half a dozen neighbouring villages and hamlets (notably Argentiere, Les Bossons and Les Houches). 

Chamonix itself was once a small village but has grown steadily as the surrounding mountains (the most famous of which is Mont Blan) attract more and more visitors. It now measures about 2 mls by ½ ml with a permanent population of around 10,000. Much of the development is sensitive to the region, although the town centre is rather commercialised, you can still conjure up its village origins in the cobbled streets of the extensive pedestrianised area around the central square. It is a popular year-round base and its size and valley location mean it can get excessively crowded in high season (Jan to March and July to Aug); it is generally quiet mid to late spring and mid to late autumn.